Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Swim right! for the queen

River run is a tricky place to visit - it means living in a tiny tent, using less than pristine facilities, and drinking far too much beer with 19 year old boys. My sister Alice rose to the challenge and came rafting on the Ottawa. Alice, Sarah and Andre went boating in high water, and while the raft (and Andre) came made it thru bus eater upright, Sarah and Alice went for a wee swim.



Apparently you can do things other than paddle here - and Sarah, Alice and I went to find out what eastern Canada has to offer. Given we scrapped our initial plan to go canoeing, we left Gwyn behind and went in search of beaches, wine and cheese in Algonquin provincial park. Lovely.

On route home we found a small town hairdresser and to celebrate being much less shaggy we made dangerously tasty blended drinks and put on dresses - widely appreciated by our rafting buddies.

A little low on energy after a weekend of naughtiness we decided to make the mission to Quebec City. The oldest European settlement in north america, it is a beautifully restored collection of old buildings and fortifications, the food is amazing and everyone speaks French. We wandered around, feeling we were somewhere in Europe, which was confirmed by a shopping expedition - all the women are tiny and beautiful and there were no shoes to fit Sarah. Just like Paris.

I think we sent Alice home in slightly better shape than when she arrived... but maybe not. The water is still high here, and I can't wait to go boating.
cheers
Polly

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Check your shoes for scorpions

The Grand Canyon is well worth the hype... apologies for this hopelessly delayed update. It's been busy in here in the valley! The scenery is superb - from the point you put on at Lees Ferry (which we were quite wrongly told is a hot, horrible place) all the way to the take out at Diamond Creek. You think you'd get used to soaring red canyon walls, clear green water and pristine beaches, but 14 days is the right amount of time to take it all in.


June is hot in the desert and many of our side hikes were up wet canyons, scrambling up waterfalls and swimming in green pools. We did one spectacular day hike up one river valley, out of the canyon and across the tops - and got a true appreciation that hiking out of the river is not an option. Your only way out is down the Colarado.
We were lucky with flows - relatively high water in the river (around 400 cumecs) and all the tributaries clear and pretty. The little Colorado was blue with limestone terraces, while other creeks were green oases carving deep gorges through red limestone walls.

The whitewater is straightforward, with huge green highways typically leading into exploding wave trains. Surfing big waves was good training for coming home to bus eater on the Ottawa. Eating ridiculously good food, soaking up much sun and beer, I definitely felt more relaxed after this trip, although I think most of us gained rather than lost pounds.

The best thing about the Canyon was how pleased I was to fly back to Canada. It's always nice to look forward to something, and the last couple of weeks on the Ottawa have been amazing. I came home to high water and the famous bus eater wave still in - very unusual for July. We assume the river will drop one day soon, in the interim we took sister Alice rafting...