We're off!

We leave tomorrow - Tuesday 26 June - and the sun is out in Longyearbyen. It must be nearly 15 degrees if you’re not in the wind! Lovely. As you won’t see any pictures till we’re back - here are some artic pics taken in the past couple of days.

It’s been great to take some time to sort stuff out before taking off. We’ve practiced shooting at the rifle range, considered food drops, sorted waterproof gun bags, packed all the food and developed a couple of options for our trip wire system. The locals have been unbelievably friendly and helpful. And of course by staying the weekend we got to celebrate the summer solstice... and recover from the party.


Before the party, new friends Eric and Liv made us a gorgeous fruit salad and made sure we started the night well with champagne and beer at their place. The boys went swimming at 2 in the morning... after lots more beer.



Playing with guns starts off scary but with some time at the rifle range we were all a lot more comfy. I put big holes in the 25m target with Miriam's shot gun. If the polar bears are as accomodating I'll be fine.

Yesterday we packed - and much to Miriam and my surprise everything fit in the boats! Ra, our eternal optimist, was completely sure it would all go.

And a fairly dreadful shot of Svalbard reindeer, truly strange beasties, visiting the campsite.

I'm feeling a funny mixture of excitement and nervousness. We're all pretty keen to get the paddles in the water!
Hugs to all
Polly, Mim, Ra

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Arriving yesterday at 2am, we were greeted by a blast of 6 degree air on bare arms (and in Ra's case, legs) and what seemed to be an overcast afternoon sky. Both completely toasted, we lugged our considerable pile of gear out of the airport, though a building site and down a coal smeared hill to the sea - and Miriam's yellow olympus tent. It is great to be here and see the team.

Longyearbyen is a town full of surprises. As you drive in, your first view is of old coal mines and the infrastructure needed to support mining. In other places, you might expect this rubbish to be cleaned up - here is preserved as part of the island's heritage, and there are strict rules about looking after it. While fresh food is understandably very expensive, it's much cheaper to buy beer here than it is in mainland Norway, as the Sysselmannen (govenor) imposes much lower taxes. It's ridiculously easy to buy outdoor gear, excellent baking, and weapons (a common sight is people biking about town with a large shotgun on their back). Reindeer graze what passes for grass here, and we've seen eider ducks and various sorts of tern.

We're sorting thru the extraordinary pile of gear and food needed for the trip, and quizzing mostly friendly locals about everything from fishing to huts to ice and walruses. I've seen my first proper map! It really is a loooong way round.

We woke up this morning to discover that demolition Longyearbyen style is to burn down buildings, to give the fire team some much needed practice. Here is our tents, kayaks, and the fire, with the airport control tower behind it. Classic.

It looks like we'll be off Monday at the earliest, which gives us the opportunity to join in the solstice celebration here (and recover from it!) and find our more about possible food drops. My fingers are crossed, although Ra hopes fervently we'll be able to fit it all in the boats.

Love to all!

Polly, Miriam, Ra

Artic adventure

Flying half way round the world always makes my head spin, and the contrast of winter Wellington to summer Maidenhead has been unreal - especially considering this week is all about getting to know new baby Isabelle, 3 weeks old tomorrow and the delight of Colin and Jules.

Maidenhead is a wee stop on route to the biggest adventure yet. Friends Ra and Mim dreamed up the idea of sea kayaking round Spitsbergen, the largest island in the Svalbard archipelago, and our last few months have been on fast forward, sorting gear and logistics, working full time, and training when possible. Fantastic to think that this time next week the team will be in Svalbard.

We'll start the trip in Longyearbyen, the island's largest settlement, and head north on the 1200km mission. Spitsbergen is home to more polar bears than people, and despite early whaling and coal mining, it's now protected by the Norwegian government. I'm hoping we'll see some truly extraordinary landscape and enjoy the creatures who live there.

Our first task will be to pack a small mountain of gear into three sea kayaks. We have eight weeks food and two of most things, and the aim is to get round self supported. Boating! Can't wait to get those first paddle strokes in the water.

We've got a satellite phone, and a spare battery, and the plan is to text Louis updates, who will then put these on this blog. We'll try to send news once a week. Please be aware that if our "frivolous" battery runs out then there will be no more updates!

Everyones' good wishes and enthusiasm for this trip have been amazing. Thank you all - and see you in the spring.

Polly