Saturday, June 23, 2007

Longyearbyen, Svalbard

Arriving yesterday at 2am, we were greeted by a blast of 6 degree air on bare arms (and in Ra's case, legs) and what seemed to be an overcast afternoon sky. Both completely toasted, we lugged our considerable pile of gear out of the airport, though a building site and down a coal smeared hill to the sea - and Miriam's yellow olympus tent. It is great to be here and see the team.

Longyearbyen is a town full of surprises. As you drive in, your first view is of old coal mines and the infrastructure needed to support mining. In other places, you might expect this rubbish to be cleaned up - here is preserved as part of the island's heritage, and there are strict rules about looking after it. While fresh food is understandably very expensive, it's much cheaper to buy beer here than it is in mainland Norway, as the Sysselmannen (govenor) imposes much lower taxes. It's ridiculously easy to buy outdoor gear, excellent baking, and weapons (a common sight is people biking about town with a large shotgun on their back). Reindeer graze what passes for grass here, and we've seen eider ducks and various sorts of tern.

We're sorting thru the extraordinary pile of gear and food needed for the trip, and quizzing mostly friendly locals about everything from fishing to huts to ice and walruses. I've seen my first proper map! It really is a loooong way round.

We woke up this morning to discover that demolition Longyearbyen style is to burn down buildings, to give the fire team some much needed practice. Here is our tents, kayaks, and the fire, with the airport control tower behind it. Classic.

It looks like we'll be off Monday at the earliest, which gives us the opportunity to join in the solstice celebration here (and recover from it!) and find our more about possible food drops. My fingers are crossed, although Ra hopes fervently we'll be able to fit it all in the boats.
Love to all!
Polly, Miriam, Ra


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